Archive for September, 2009

 

Planning on Growing Your Own Vegetables – Where to Start?

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

These days with large sites hard to come by and allotments much in demand, old gardeners or gardening junkies are no longer the sole exponents of GIY. No, many new entrants are young professionals, nature enthusiasts, people who are genuinely interested in getting closer to nature or reducing their dependency on mass market produce. Whilst others are experimenting by growing their own vegetables, almost like self sufficent micro farmers or even environmentalists, taking positive steps to reduce carbon footprint or better still growing for their own organic consumption and self satisfaction. Not surprising therefore to read in Press reports that the sale of vegetable seed has overtaken the sale of flower seed.

So if you are a potential GIYer and do intend starting a programme or project of growing your own vegetables, you might be interested in the following advice . So whether your motivation is to reduce air miles or taste organic food, there are some important points to consider when planning to start a vegetable garden.

Does size matter? No – not really, whether you have a pot, an old kitchen sink, a window sill or a sprawling site, growing your own vegetables is not only easy and exciting, it is also very rewarding.

Location – unless of course you enjoy longer walks through your garden, for practical reasons, the vegetable plot or kitchen garden should ideally be positioned nearer the house.
More importantly best to choose a position which permits the vegetable plot to enjoy a sunny aspect for much of the day. Although some vegetable produce will tolerate some shade (for example lettuce, runner beans etc), most won’t, so pick the site very carefully, pick a sunny and a sheltered position, avoid exposed windy sites. Other site aspects worth considering include picking a site where the prevailing ground conditions are level and free draining. Finally do bear in mind that good soil conditions will also be required, whether you prepare the ground by digging or mix in new soil or soil conditioners, most vegetables will require a growing depth of at least 300mm.

What to grow? Some might have favourites, some might stick with old reliable:
Potatoes are good, and probably one of the easiest to grow, they are also great at breaking down heavy soils. But do remember to give them plenty of water.
Leeks – easy to grow from seed and young leek tastes wonderful
Broad beans – very tasty when young but are very easy to grow
Sweetcorn – harvest when tassels are brown and boil in salted water
Radishes – many different varieties to choose from, but an ideal and fast growing crop from which to teach the children GIY
Runner Beans – quick growing, plentiful and pick and with lots of pick’n’grow fun

Deciding on the Layout – is important especially where space might be limited. For example you can grow some varieties at ground level whilst others such as French and Runner Beans can be trained to grow very effectively up trellising or bamboo canes. In larger sites, plan a series of long narrow beds which are easily accessible from both sides, but do remember to leave plenty of space between the growing beds, for example you should be able to move along pathways between beds with a wheelbarrow or more importantly if you like to get down on your hand and knees and get dirty, you’ll need at least 900mm – 1200mm spacing between the beds. Growing beds can be ground level on larger sites or raised on smaller sites or where soil conditions are poor. Raised beds can be developed using soil from other sites and mixing with compost, manures, soil conditioners etc. Also because they are raised you can ensure that drainage is good. As stated earlier, most vegetables prefer to grow in sunny areas, therefore it make sense to orientate beds on a north south axis, this ensures that all vegetable get sun each day. Be generous on spacing between beds, and consider a surface material so that all weather access is possible.

Ground Preparation – the better the soil, the better the performance, it is not impossible to provide good growing conditions. vegetables require nutrients, water and oxygen. Soil plays a vital role in providing nutrients to plants. So it is important to prepare ground by digging to improve plants take up of nutrients. Alternatively if ground conditions are poor, you can use raised beds to provide better growing conditions for plants. In contrast to the ‘dig system’ the concept of using Raised Beds is sometimes referred to as the ‘No dig system’. Raised beds can be constructed from a variety of boards/timbers, recycled pallet boards, railway sleepers, pressure treated new sleepers, builder’s scaffolding boards all being popular choices.

Using crop rotation wisely – rotating the planting and growing of vegetables yields many benefits in terms of efficiency, bounty and disease/pest control. For example, Broccoli grows well in soils containing good levels of nitrogen, on the other hand, beans put nitrogen into the soil. Potatoes with the large canopy of foliage are very effective at suppressing weeds, whereas onions grow particularly very well in weed free soils. So from a crop rotational perspective, one would plant beans before of broccoli and potatoes before of onions.

Starting a rotation cycle – you should plan for at least three years, meaning the same vegetable will grow in the same spot every third year. However if you wish to also grow potatoes, better to use a four year rotation. The RHS has a very simple way to remember where each vegetable comes within the cycle: British Rail Late, where:

B = brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, kale, turnips etc) was
R = roots (beetroot, parsnips, carrots)
L = legumes (peas, Broad bean, French bean, Runner bean, onions, garlic, chives)

How it works in practice is in area 1, you plant brassicas first year, roots in second year and legumes in third year. In area 2, you plant roots first year, legumes second year and brassicas third year. In area 3, you plant legumes first followed by brassicas and roots.

Maintenance – providing you have done good ground preparation, maintenance of the area shouldn’t be much more than adding a good fertiliser (Fish Bone & Blood) before planting or manure in Autumn. Watering is important especially during the early vulnerable stage, again bets done early in morning or late in evening and always check to make sure water is getting down to plant roots. Weed regularly to avoid unwanted competition for nutrients and water.

If at first you don’t succeed – try again. Sometimes it is only as a result of trial and error that you will discover what grows best for you in your area and conditions. Don’t be afraid to ask other local gardeners for tips or advice with particular problems, most of all, have fun in growing your own vegetables and join the burgeoning legion of GIY enthusiasts..

For more information, visit: http://www.owenchubblandscapers.com/news/entry/grow-it-yourself-where-to-start/

Owen Chubb
http://www.articlesbase.com/self-help-articles/planning-on-growing-your-own-vegetables-where-to-start-646310.html

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Physiology Of Indoor Trees

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

Physiology is the study of the functions of living things. In plants, physiology involves fundamental processes such as photosynthesis, respiration, transpiration, flowering, sugar storage, and dormancy.

The environment limits plant growth and distribution, as well as the fundamental processes that occur in plants. Different plants have different characteristics. Indoor trees exist in different types and therefore have dissimilar requirements. Varying amounts of light, temperature, humidity and nutrition are needed by indoor trees for performing their physiological processes.

Light has three key characteristics that influence plant development, namely quality, quantity and duration. Light quality is the wavelength reaching the surface of the plant. Different indoor trees require exposure to varying qualities of light. For instance, indoor bonsai trees or tropical bonsai trees need to be placed close to east, south, or west window, and an artificial light will suffice if the room has no windows. The ficus trees, coffee tree and parlor palm needs bright, indirect sunlight, so it is best to keep them near the west or east windows. Dracaena plants require indirect light.

Light quantity is the intensity or concentration of light. Indoor trees can be classified as low-light, medium-light, or high-light plants. Included in the category of low-light plants are dracaena, aspidistra and algoanema. These plants need to be greater than five feet away from the light source. Medium-light plants require being within five feet from the light source. The lady palm or raphis palm belongs to this category. High-light plants need to be close to the light source. Ficus trees fall in this category.

Light duration is the length of time of a plant’s exposure to light. For example, citrus trees need to be put under direct sunlight for four to six hours daily.

Temperature is also a factor that affects the plant’s growth and productivity. Photosynthesis, respiration and transpiration all increase with increasing temperature. Low temperatures increase the capability to store sugar and lessen energy use. Dormancy is also affected by temperature. Dormancy is broken with the presence of warmth after a period of low temperature.

Indoor trees also require varying amounts of humidity or water. Bonsai trees need to be placed in trays with gravel and water since they tend to dry out quickly. The same goes for ficus and citrus trees. Dracaena trees need high humidity. Soil moisture need to be maintained in coffee tree and citrus trees, while dracaena and ficus trees need to be allowed to dry after watering. Fishtail palm needs to be watered weekly.

There are also different fertilizer requirements for indoor trees. Ficus trees need to be fed monthly with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Dracaena plants require monthly feeding of half-strength indoor plant fertilizer while citrus trees require feeding of blooming-plant fertilizer for every three to four weeks. The striped dracaena and coffee tree needs application of slow-release fertilizer every spring.

Patrick Desnoyers
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/physiology-of-indoor-trees-94348.html

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Update Your Landscaping With Shrubs

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

Sometimes the only way to truly brighten up a garden is to introduce some shrubs into it. They add a touch of color and they are fairly easy to maintain too. With so much choice available it is hard not to find something which you like and you should notice that it can make a big difference to your garden having the right type of shrubs.

Which Shrubs Should You Choose For Your Garden?

Each shrub looks different and so they will bring different results to the landscaping. This means that you should plan ahead and see what the overall look is that you are trying to achieve. Once you know that you can then start to research the types of shrubs available.

Some of the most common shrubs include:

A.Caxton
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/update-your-landscaping-with-shrubs-97853.html

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Save Energy With the Right Landscaping

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

You are in the process of modernizing your home, and as such you would also like to do some contemporary landscaping. (Contemporary- existing or occurring at, or dating from, the same period of time as something or somebody else). You would really like to do your own landscaping, but are considering hiring professional landscapers because you are not especially familiar with landscaping. So, what you need are some contemporary landscaping ideas.

About Contemporary Landscaping

History: Contemporary landscaping began to emerge in northern Europe during the first half of the 20th century, and combined elements of English landscape gardening with influences from modern architecture. New materials such as wood, concrete, metal and glass, and other non-traditional materials found their way into the creation of this new vitality. Contemporary landscaping utilized variations in scale, time, space and texture to create abstract patterns. Newer designs also created innovations in light and space, often told in color, creating new focal points and visual patterns.

There is actually no one kind of contemporary landscaping, since modern houses love to emulate older styles, especially the English Garden look. If this look appeals to you, consider that for one of your contemporary landscaping ideas.

Most people will say that the point of landscaping is to “beautify” your yard but energy efficient landscaping is a type of landscaping designed for the purpose of conserving energy and to be beautiful.

Remember, if you decide to landscape only one section of the yard at a time, you will still need an overall plan. That’s why when it comes to landscaping put the plan on a plain sheet of paper. So for people who are into landscaping, it is best to have a copy of some of the landscaping books that are available in the market.

Best of all, landscaping books do not just provide techniques and methods that are ideal for the activity, they provide different information regarding plants, the materials to be used, and other topics that have something to do with landscaping. Consider spot and flood lighting that will highlight the rock placement within the landscaping and where you will obtain the power feed for that lighting. Increasingly, homeowners are going to the next level with landscaping, and are investing time and money in outdoor lighting.

Everyone knows that landscaping can enhance the beauty of your indoor or outdoor area, but not everyone is aware that you can use this method to save money for heating, cooling and electricity costs too. Be aware that if you place shrubs and trees strategically in your backyard, you can guarantee a reduction in your bills.

During cold seasons, these shrubs and trees can protect your home from frosty winds, allowing your home to reduce losing heat at a rapid rate. Equally, landscaping can reduce the need for cooling equipment because the trees could provide your home adequate shade. Not only can landscaping beautify your indoor or outdoor area, it can improve residential privacy, increase the real estate value of your home and provide you with a more comfortable living area while saving energy costs. With a little investment, your can benefit from a long-term energy efficient solution that you can perform on your own.

However, if you’re planning to cut energy costs by landscaping, be aware that you need careful planning and implementation of your project to ensure all elements can work to benefit your home.

Steps to Follow

To yield maximum results from your landscaping, you need to consider and implement some energy-saving methods. For instance, some energy commissions recommend using specific trees that could reduce the cooling costs of your home to over 25 per cent. The type of tree you choose to plant in your backyard largely affects how much shade it could provide your home. Ask for recommendations from your local Energy Commission or other landscaping experts about the right tree to plant based on your available area and needs of your home.

Planning how to give shade to your home is an important part of landscaping because it can reduce air temperature inside and outside your home up to 6 degrees. The location on where you plant the trees can also affect the cooling and heating benefits they could provide in your home. Most experts recommend planting trees at the northwest-southwest and northeast-southeast parts of your home. When you are planning to plant vines and vegetables for your landscaping project, make sure to consider air circulation before starting the project. Be aware that improper placement of vines, fences and other elements in your backyard could trap summer heat and increase the need for cooling equipments.

With any kind of elements you wish to add with your landscaping, it is best to plan carefully to ensure that each location and placement will reduce energy costs. With a successful project, not only can you beautify your home, you also reduce bills throughout the year, regardless of the season.

Copyright © John Hanna All Rights Reserved.

This article may be distributed freely on your website and in your ezines, as long as this entire article, copyright notice, links and the resource box are unchanged.

Doug Woodall
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/save-energy-with-the-right-landscaping-124188.html

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Edible Flowers in Your Garden

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

Flowers can be an integral part of cooking. While most of us are
aware that violets can be candied and nasturtiums can be eaten
in salads, there’s a bounty of flower varieties that are both
edible and delicious.

Satisfying Your Sweet Tooth with Flowers Violets are not
the only flower that can be candied. Many spring flowers with
small, delicate blossoms have a sweet, somewhat spicy flavor
that is enhanced by dipping them in sugar. It goes without
saying that any flowers that you gather for eating should have
been grown without the use of pesticide – by growing them
yourself, you can be sure that they’re untreated. A Candy Flower
Garden that blooms throughout the summer can include:

Violets – Purple, blue or white, violets are among the first
flowers to bloom in the spring. They spread easily, and grow
happily when transplanted into a garden bed – and you do want to
confine them to a bed unless you love the look of a full carpet
of blooms spreading across your lawn.

Pansies – A relative of violets, pansies are just as delicately
flavored and can be used as a substitute in recipes that call
for violets. They make beautiful border flowers to boot.

Angelica – These delicate, lacy white flowers can be sprinkled
in salads – but the stems and shoots make a delicious
traditional candy that tastes a bit like licorice with a hint of
mint.

Roses – Candied rose petals and rose syrup were mainstays in
Victorian cooking. Sweet delicately flavored rose syrup gives
baklava its characteristic flavor, and is a perfect foil for
cardamom in Indian recipes.

To candy flowers from your garden: Violets and pansies
can be candied whole. Roses should be separated into petals.
Most recipes for candied flowers call for the use of raw egg
whites. Using a confectioner’s powdered egg white instead
reduces risk of salmonella.

Mix powdered egg white according to package directions
(equivalent of one egg white). Spread a cup of superfine sugar
in a flat bottomed pan. Carefully dip each flower into the egg
white, then press into the sugar. Use a fork to gently turn the
flower so that all surfaces of the petals are covered. Lift out
of sugar and lay on a screen or drying rack till completely dry.
Apple and cherry blossoms can also be candied the same way.

A Soup, Salad and Savory Flower Garden Early summer
squash blossoms may be dipped in egg and flour, then fried in
olive oil with garlic. The blossoms have a sweet, nutty flavor
that is like nothing else. Other garden flowers that are
delicious in soups and salads include:

Borage – Like the leaves, borage flowers are delicious in salads
and cold soups. They have a cool, cucumber like taste that
translates well from flower garden to kitchen table.

Carnations – The flavor is as spicy as the scent. Carefully
separate the petals from the bitter white of the flower’s base
and sprinkle in salads for a surprising touch of color and spice.

Daylilies – Like squash blossoms, day lilies have a mildly
sweet, nutty flavor that many people think varies by color.
Dredged in flour and dipped in egg, fried daylilies are quite
succulent and unique in flavor.

These are just a small sampling of the many edible flowers from
your garden. Be careful in your taste-testing. If you are not
sute if a flower is edible do not eat it.

Ed Rooney
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/edible-flowers-in-your-garden-1493.html

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